Peaks and Troughs - Thomas Laursen, the new Country Manager reports back from Rysy

 

          

Amid the current international financial crisis, on September 26 at 00.54am a friend and I boarded the night-train from Warsaw to Zakopane, heading for Rysy—the highest mountain in Poland at 2499m on the border of Slovakia in the High Tatras. Ten hours later, most of which spent going back and forth around the foothills of the mountains south of Krakow, we were met by Jacek from our office at the local train station. We wondered if perhaps it would not make sense to build a straight and fast connection between Krakow and Zakopane, or at least reverse the schedules between Warsaw and Zakopane (the night train back leaves at 7 pm) to give visitors more time. Poland has great potential for upgraded and new, fast railways, including between the major cities.

We were surprised a bit when Jacek furnished us with ice axes and crampons, but we would soon realize that winter had come early to the mountains—perhaps another sign of the ongoing climate change. Another reason, by the way, to think more about railways, which are more climate-friendly than roads.

Like many other roads in Poland, the small access road to Morski Oko was closed due to construction, but we enjoyed the five hour hike over Piec Stawow (Five Lakes)—with a short stop for tea and bigos at the beautiful old cabin—and the mountain ridge to the lake. After a good nights sleep at the equally nice Morski Oko lodge, and some warning from the local mountain rescue guide that the route to Rysy was very difficult and unchartered the past two weeks owing to heavy snowfalls and avalanche danger, we set out early Saturday morning along Morskie Oko and Czarny Staw. The amazing stone trail built by Highlanders long time ago to smuggle goods and host hunting and other parties soon disappeared under the snow as we crawled slowly up the steeps of the mountain. Half way up, the fog ensnarled us, but perhaps the mountain Gods heard our silent prayers for visibility, for suddenly the fog broke enough to guide us in the right direction. A small local group, tracing our footsteps, led the way to the chains that marked the last, steep section up the ridge towards the peak. On the way, we were graced with a momentary clearing of the fog and fantastic views to the valley and surrounding peaks. A moment to remember, among many others in Poland. After a few nerve-wrecking, narrow passages, with near vertical drops to both sides, we summitted and descended slowly on the easier Slovak side, acknowledging like many others before that it was the journey rather than the destination that mattered most.

Before boarding the train back Sunday morning, Jacek showed us around Zakopane, including an old church and cemetery for local heroes—testament to the proud heritage of the town. With easier access, a little more city planning, a little less commercial chaos, a little more focus on mountain adventures rather than scattered downhill skiing, the inherent charm of the place could perhaps attract more year-round and better tourism. Certainly, the sunny view to Giewont, a symbol of Zakopane, and the snow-clad Western Tatras as the train pulled out of the station made one want to come back for more. We saw no bears in the mountains, but there were plenty on Wall Street Monday when the DJ stock index took its largest plunge in history. Fortunately, the macroeconomic fundamentals and the financial system in Poland are relatively sound which will help shield the country from the ongoing crisis.

best regards, Thomas Laursen